Saturday, September 22, 2012

Two Years


Two years ago today, September 22, I met 62 other people, people fresh out of college, people who had left the job market after a number of years, people who had retired, people who were about to step into the unknown.  We came together in a hotel in Philadelphia, said goodbye to our loved ones, filled out some paperwork, and the next day, boarded a bus which took us to New York City to fly to Azerbaijan, a country of almost 9 million Muslims.  Two years ago, we circled each other warily, trying to determine who these people with whom we had volunteered to spend the next 27 months of our lives were.  It seems like a lifetime ago.  It seems like yesterday.

I know I wrote something similar last year at this time.   This year, I write this in the wake of a series of protests that have swept the Muslim world, reacting to an atrocious video that depicts the worst, most degrading and insulting stereotypes and misconceptions about Islam that anyone could possibly have made.  I know, I’ve watched the video twice.  My host family asked me to translate it.  I sat in front of the computer screen, unable to comprehend what I was watching.  In part, this was due to the fact that, in addition to being an offensive and degrading, it’s a horribly made movie with almost no thread connecting scene to scene.  It’s bad in every possible sense of the word.

I didn’t start writing today to review the film.  I wanted to write because on this date, I celebrate living in a Muslim country.  Azerbaijan is not a perfect country, and its people are not perfect.  Of course they’re not, no one is.  But it is important to remember that while some people who practice Islam have killed and are killing throughout the world, they do not represent the entire faith.  I hope the images of people from Libya have reached the American media, images of men, women and children holding signs apologizing and condemning those that turned to violence in the wake of the attacks.  These Muslims honored and celebrated the work of Chris Stevens, the ambassador to Libya, and a former Peace Corps Volunteer. 


For two years, I have had the pleasure to live amongst some of the kindest and most welcoming people I have ever met.  The two families I have lived with while serving here in Azerbaijan, particularly my family in Ismayilli, have treated me as one of their sons.  When I am ill, they take care of me.  When I am happy, they celebrate my achievements.  When I am frustrated, they listen while I vent.  When it is my birthday, they baked me a cake, and made me a birthday dinner.  They shared their holidays, their ideas, their beliefs, their lives, with me.  The generosity they have shown myself and other Peace Corps volunteers who have visited is the greatest thing I will miss when I return.  They make me happy to have guests, they make me proud for people to know I live with them.

I have had the fortune to live in two predominantly Muslim countries in my life.  For nearly four years, my family lived in Jakarta, Indonesia.  We were there when the World Trade Center was attacked.  And while security at our school increased, and some of our friends moved home, we never felt as if we were in danger.  Our neighborhood was not the area where a large number of expats lived.  It was our families, our Dutch neighbors, and Indonesians, all centered around the local mosque.  Our neighbors came to us, and told us that we never had to worry; they would watch out for us. 

These countries do no represent the entire Muslim world, just as the United States does not represent all of the West, or all of Christendom.  But here I am, having lived through six years in two different Muslim countries, and I have never felt safer as an American than I have in these homes.  For over a quarter of my life, I have lived with caring and thoughtful people.  These years have been some of the most memorable and formative moments of my life, and to the people, the families, the Muslims, that have been a part of my life, I thank you.

UPDATE: Word has hit the media that protests have started in Baku, though the police halted them and many who were involved in any violence have been taken to jail.  The fact that protests have begun here in no way changes how I feel about my time here, nor does it change any of my feelings about safety here in Ismayilli.

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