Winter may not be over, and clubs are still sparsely attended, but the last week has been considerably sunnier than recently. It may not really be much warmer, but just seeing the sun makes it feel like spring may actually come. A few weekends ago, after what seemed like years of clouds, snow, and frozen pipes, I traveled to Bilasuvar, to visit one of my former cluster mates. This was my first visit to the south of Azerbaijan.
Before I could head south, I found I had to go west. There are no direct roads between my part of Azerbaijan and the southern finger, and I had two options—go west and then south, or go to Baku and then south. I ended up meeting up and heading south from Mingachevir with another PCV friend. This too was a bit of a milestone for me, the first time back to Mingachevir since site visits, over a year ago. At that time, I needed my PCV host to feed me Azerbaijani lines to be able to ask how much some potatoes at the bazaar were, and even then, barely stumbled through the conversation. Now, such conversations have become second nature.
(My host brother has been teaching himself some Spanish, and asked me some questions about that. Now, that requires a lot of conversation to recall the Spanish vocabulary and conjugation.)
At the time, Mingachevir was my first choice for site, perhaps because it was the only place outside of Xirdalan and Sumgayit I had seen in Azerbaijan. But after a year of living and working in Ismayilli, I can truthfully say that I am happy at my site, and even though Mingachevir would have been a great assignment—university students, lots of site mates, warmer winters—there is a lot to be thankful for in Ismayilli. I still have a fantastic host family, beautiful surroundings which I hope to explore more of in a summer that is less humid than much of the rest of the country, and beautiful views of snow-covered mountains in the winter. Not too shabby.
From Mingachevir, we got on a large bus, that was comfortable for how old it was, and despite the fact that its internal systems had been gutted. The spots where the personal lights and A/C fans once were, now were just holes in the ceiling. The engine was where the buses really showed their age; though we definitely weren’t helped by the state of some of the roads we drove on, under construction since before I came to Azerbaijan.
It turned out that we drove back basically the way I’d come, and if I had known, I could have waited for the bus instead of going all the way to its source. Lesson learned. Eventually we turned south, and five hours after we’d left Mingachevir finally had our first rest stop. After that, Bilasuvar was another 45 minutes. We’d taken breakfast with us on the bus, but to be safe had not drunk anything up until the rest stop.
I will say this about the south. It is flat. At least not along the path we were on. Further west, there are the Talysh Mountains, but along the coast it is flat, flat, flat. I dozed off in the last leg of the trip and woke up suddenly to see we were passing over a large lake, suddenly reminiscent of driving to Key West.
Bilasuvar is flat and spread out, so even though it is one of the smallest rayons in Azerbaijan, the town itself is actually fairly large, or at least in comparison to Ismayilli. The PCV we were visiting works at a very nice, modern school financed by Central Bank, complete with Smart Boards and giant outdoor chess sets. While the school faces many of the same issues other schools in Azerbaijan deal with (textbooks, etc), it was startling and exciting to see a school so different from where I work. They even have school buses!
Several other PCVs came to visit us and we made some delicious chicken enchiladas and sugar cookies before settling in for a game of Settlers of Catan. The next day we wandered around town and found ourselves climbing the bleachers at the local stadium and staring out across the fields, trying to spot Iran in the distance. While we were unable to see the mountains that are on the Iranian side, we could see far enough in the clouds to see the road that crosses the border and a flag that marks the crossing.
The final night was marked with more Settlers, good music, and a long, hot shower. The next day, another seven hour bus ride commenced and finally I made it back to Ismayilli, to discover that the pipes had finally thawed and water was mine once more. The days of melting snow were over (hopefully I’m not jinxing myself on this one). A watched pipe never thaws, and getting out of Dodge was just what they needed to work again.
Since then, we've had some sunnier days, and temperatures have even jumped into the 40s! Last Tuesday marked the first of four days leading up to Novruz, each called Chershembe. You may remember from last year that each represents a different element. The first Tuesday was water. Though it is tradition for girls to go to the river to gather water, that step was avoided here (no local rivers, for one). Instead, my family did place a bowl of clean water on the table during dinner and prepared the traditional celebratory meal, plov.
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Khojaly 20 Years Later
Sunday marks the 20th anniversary of the Khojaly massacre, which resulted in over 600 civilian deaths. Along with January 20th, this is one of the most important dates in Azerbaijan.
Maybe it’s anniversary fever, but suddenly, Azerbaijan is popping up around the world. Germany and France have recognized the event as an act of genocide. A memorial was erected in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Signs for Khojaly have been placed in New York and Washington, even on the front page of The Washington Post website, and on buses and buildings in New York City. Even the state of New Jersey recognized the massacre.
At my school, an assembly was held to remember those who passed on that day, complete with a powerpoint slide show, detailing the event. Even though I did not understand all that was said, it was clear how impassioned they felt about the incident.
While the war that lead to these deaths caused suffering and death for both sides of the conflict, it is nice to see the issue receive international attention. Progress towards peace has not been achieved solely between the two countries, which to this day remain technically at war, albeit in a cease-fire. Attention, interest, and encouragement from the international community seem the best and most effective means of encouraging both sides to move towards a peaceful resolution. Of course there are other pressing international relations concerns, but a peace between these two countries sure would make relations in this region healthier.
http://news.az/articles/karabakh/55420
http://news.az/articles/politics/55381
http://azerbaijanamericaalliance.org/
Maybe it’s anniversary fever, but suddenly, Azerbaijan is popping up around the world. Germany and France have recognized the event as an act of genocide. A memorial was erected in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Signs for Khojaly have been placed in New York and Washington, even on the front page of The Washington Post website, and on buses and buildings in New York City. Even the state of New Jersey recognized the massacre.
At my school, an assembly was held to remember those who passed on that day, complete with a powerpoint slide show, detailing the event. Even though I did not understand all that was said, it was clear how impassioned they felt about the incident.
While the war that lead to these deaths caused suffering and death for both sides of the conflict, it is nice to see the issue receive international attention. Progress towards peace has not been achieved solely between the two countries, which to this day remain technically at war, albeit in a cease-fire. Attention, interest, and encouragement from the international community seem the best and most effective means of encouraging both sides to move towards a peaceful resolution. Of course there are other pressing international relations concerns, but a peace between these two countries sure would make relations in this region healthier.
http://news.az/articles/karabakh/55420
http://news.az/articles/politics/55381
http://azerbaijanamericaalliance.org/
The two links at the bottom of this post relate to projects that are beginning in or will possibly occur. These are not development projects, of the sort that Peace Corps generally becomes involved with, but they are of interest, particularly to someone who has been involved in the development of the country and seen the difference between the regions and the capital.
Even in the past year that I have been here, Azerbaijan, and Baku in particular, has changed drastically. New buildings are constantly being constructed, mostly to be new stores, but also apartments, offices, and hotels. In Baku, anticipation for Eurovision is accelerating. The representative for Azerbaijan has been chosen, and search for a song is now underway. A side note, two PCVs participated in the contest to be selected to represent Azerbaijan in the Eurovision contest, and while they only finished 8 out of 9 in their week (of seven weeks), they brought some wonderful attention to Peace Corps.
The song that started it all: This is their first music video which launched them to international fame.
Introduction Video/In Azerbaijan: For Eurovision, they filmed this video introducing themselves and included a new video clip, which involved filming at the new cultural arts center that is under construction.
Payiz Geldi: The second night at Eurovision, all the contestants performed traditional Azeri music.
Baku Girls: The third night of the competition.
Final Night: On the final night of the competition, they were joined on stage by a whole host of other PCVs who were in town for the week for our group's mid-service conference.
As Azerbaijan barrels towards hosting the event, and endeavors to put its best foot forward, the country’s enthusiasm has grown exponentially, and the government has made bigger and grander changes and projects. Here are two proposals:
http://www.theatlanticcities.com/design/2012/02/azerbaijan-build-one-kilometer-tall-skyscraper/1188/#.TzY33y7U--c.facebook
http://www.news.az/articles/54051
Regardless of what projects are completed in time, and which remain for the future, being here in Azerbaijan at this time is certainly interesting. While most of the changes are focused in Baku, even the regions of Azerbaijan are getting in on the building. Ismayilli has finished its Great Wall of Hiding Trash, and a new row of shops is on its way.
Even in the past year that I have been here, Azerbaijan, and Baku in particular, has changed drastically. New buildings are constantly being constructed, mostly to be new stores, but also apartments, offices, and hotels. In Baku, anticipation for Eurovision is accelerating. The representative for Azerbaijan has been chosen, and search for a song is now underway. A side note, two PCVs participated in the contest to be selected to represent Azerbaijan in the Eurovision contest, and while they only finished 8 out of 9 in their week (of seven weeks), they brought some wonderful attention to Peace Corps.
The song that started it all: This is their first music video which launched them to international fame.
Introduction Video/In Azerbaijan: For Eurovision, they filmed this video introducing themselves and included a new video clip, which involved filming at the new cultural arts center that is under construction.
Payiz Geldi: The second night at Eurovision, all the contestants performed traditional Azeri music.
Baku Girls: The third night of the competition.
Final Night: On the final night of the competition, they were joined on stage by a whole host of other PCVs who were in town for the week for our group's mid-service conference.
As Azerbaijan barrels towards hosting the event, and endeavors to put its best foot forward, the country’s enthusiasm has grown exponentially, and the government has made bigger and grander changes and projects. Here are two proposals:
http://www.theatlanticcities.com/design/2012/02/azerbaijan-build-one-kilometer-tall-skyscraper/1188/#.TzY33y7U--c.facebook
http://www.news.az/articles/54051
Regardless of what projects are completed in time, and which remain for the future, being here in Azerbaijan at this time is certainly interesting. While most of the changes are focused in Baku, even the regions of Azerbaijan are getting in on the building. Ismayilli has finished its Great Wall of Hiding Trash, and a new row of shops is on its way.
Monday, February 13, 2012
Peace Corps and Long Distance Relationships
I’ve been trying different ways to discuss this topic, and no matter what, it seems to come out preachy or self-centered. Of course, this is my blog, so I guess a certain amount of self-centeredness is acceptable and expected. So forgive me this.
Peace Corps is hard. When we are sworn in as volunteers, we pledge to serve in conditions of hardship. Right there in the pledge, so we know what we’re getting ourselves in for, or at least, we know it won’t be easy. Peace Corps does try to prepare us for the hardship we will face. We receive plenty of pamphlets and paperwork about the type of work our program does, and cultural reports about our post countries. But, for prospective volunteers in committed relationships, they go one step further. They send surveys to make sure we are prepared for the upcoming challenges to the relationship.
Of course, no paper can predict all of the challenges that a couple goes through, much less when one person goes to the other side of the planet. And my relationship has definitely had its share of bumps and twists. There have been times when we’ve come pretty close to the brink. But here I am, and here we are, still together. We’ve made it through nearly seventeen months. Nine months and one week to go.
The first weeks were the hardest. Contact was so sporadic and uncontrollable throughout PST, though it did become easier once Peace Corps issued us cell phones. Then we could at least send text messages (though only if the US person has AT&T or Sprint, not Verizon). My girlfriend would call when we couldn’t meet, using Skype, which remains much cheaper than calling on a normal phone plan. It seems so long ago now, but the emotions and frustrations of that time still seem raw and real, and while our relationship has become stronger as we’ve gone through the stresses of PST, sometimes the shadow of that time has reared its ugly head. But, a lot has happened in the 13 months since then, which overwhelm those three months of aggravation and difficulty most of the time. The problems then were no one person’s fault; unless you make the case that they are my fault since I left. But they were and I suppose still are, issues that strain these long distance relationships. No matter what one does, one person is still in another country, usually with spotty Internet contact.
Once I got to site, the relationship became easier for one simple reason—we were able to create a regular talking schedule. The IREX (a community Internet and computer center) had wireless internet which enabled us to speak easily and with minimal irregularities (such as power outages and the like), and my ability to make my own schedule gave us a new flexibility for planning. Last summer, my host brother went to Ohio as part of the MUSKIE program, and my host family installed Internet, meaning I have even more scheduling freedom, and can now plan to talk after IREX closes (this came in huge when the IREX wireless stopped working). Seeing each other’s faces and hearing the other’s voice went a long way to keeping us connected. Sure, we were changing, the typical problem that faces distant couples, but we were able to grow together, not apart. Thank Newton for the wonders of technology. I can’t imagine how difficult this may have been for the first groups of volunteers back in the 60s.
The other thing that made our lives and our relationship easier is that we were able to see each other. We’ve now seen each other three times. First, as soon as was possible (Peace Corps Azerbaijan stipulates that we must remain in country and at site for the first four months of service), we met in Glasgow, Scotland. At that point, I only had a few saved up vacation days, so it was a short trip, but much needed, because it confirmed to us that we still worked when we were together. There was no awkwardness in our conversation or in our actions. All the little things—talking, joking, laughing, holding hands—were still there. We were still us.
The next time was even better, though it was not always fun. She came to Azerbaijani. At the beginning, she was steadfastly against coming. But little by little, she opened up to the idea and eventually decided she would come for ten days at the end of July. The visit was not a vacation, and in addition to the fact that it was brutally hot at the time, it was not always fun. But the fact that she came, that she had opened herself up to the idea and the experience, that she had trusted me to come around the world, meant a lot for the relationship, and meant a lot to me.
The third and most recent visit was over Christmas, and finally I made the trip home. This was my turn to be initially opposed. At the beginning of my service, I worried about not being able to come back to Azerbaijan because I liked being home too much. And while I did like being home, I knew I was far enough along in my service that I would be too stubborn to give up and stay in America.
And she supported that determination. When I got my assignment to Azerbaijan, after we figured out where it was exactly, we were on two different sides about whether I should go. But I went. And now, as we have traversed the ups and downs, suffered through the power outages and dropped phone calls, she said something to me the other day that meant a lot to me. She told me that if something were to happen that would cause me to be sent home early, she would be upset for me. At the beginning, she not entirely jokingly wanted me to suffer some minor but significant enough injury that I would be sent home. Now, though, she understands. She understands me, and that if I were sent home now, or anytime in the next nine months, I would not feel like I had completed what I set out to do, and would forever feel unfulfilled. For that understanding, I know more than ever that this is a relationship worth fighting for, and I thank her for that.
Who knows exactly what will happen in the next nine months (and one week). But at the same time that being in a relationship is made difficult by being in Peace Corps and in turn makes being in Peace Corps more difficult, it also makes it easier in many ways. Even better, someone who visited and now understands what I’m doing here all the more, makes me feel even more motivated and positive about the work I’m attempting to do. And as long as I know that she is there to listen when I need to talk, to talk when I need to listen and even when I’m not ready to listen but always willing to, I know that we will survive and in fact, thrive.
What worked for us will not work for everyone, but, in a small bout of wishing that this is not solely self-centered, I hope that some prospective PCV reads this and gleams some encouragement that they can make their long distance relationship work. We hear time and time again that long distance relationships never work, and I’ve seen and been a part of relationships that have not worked. But sometimes, once in a blue moon, they do. And thank goodness for that.
Peace Corps is hard. When we are sworn in as volunteers, we pledge to serve in conditions of hardship. Right there in the pledge, so we know what we’re getting ourselves in for, or at least, we know it won’t be easy. Peace Corps does try to prepare us for the hardship we will face. We receive plenty of pamphlets and paperwork about the type of work our program does, and cultural reports about our post countries. But, for prospective volunteers in committed relationships, they go one step further. They send surveys to make sure we are prepared for the upcoming challenges to the relationship.
Of course, no paper can predict all of the challenges that a couple goes through, much less when one person goes to the other side of the planet. And my relationship has definitely had its share of bumps and twists. There have been times when we’ve come pretty close to the brink. But here I am, and here we are, still together. We’ve made it through nearly seventeen months. Nine months and one week to go.
The first weeks were the hardest. Contact was so sporadic and uncontrollable throughout PST, though it did become easier once Peace Corps issued us cell phones. Then we could at least send text messages (though only if the US person has AT&T or Sprint, not Verizon). My girlfriend would call when we couldn’t meet, using Skype, which remains much cheaper than calling on a normal phone plan. It seems so long ago now, but the emotions and frustrations of that time still seem raw and real, and while our relationship has become stronger as we’ve gone through the stresses of PST, sometimes the shadow of that time has reared its ugly head. But, a lot has happened in the 13 months since then, which overwhelm those three months of aggravation and difficulty most of the time. The problems then were no one person’s fault; unless you make the case that they are my fault since I left. But they were and I suppose still are, issues that strain these long distance relationships. No matter what one does, one person is still in another country, usually with spotty Internet contact.
Once I got to site, the relationship became easier for one simple reason—we were able to create a regular talking schedule. The IREX (a community Internet and computer center) had wireless internet which enabled us to speak easily and with minimal irregularities (such as power outages and the like), and my ability to make my own schedule gave us a new flexibility for planning. Last summer, my host brother went to Ohio as part of the MUSKIE program, and my host family installed Internet, meaning I have even more scheduling freedom, and can now plan to talk after IREX closes (this came in huge when the IREX wireless stopped working). Seeing each other’s faces and hearing the other’s voice went a long way to keeping us connected. Sure, we were changing, the typical problem that faces distant couples, but we were able to grow together, not apart. Thank Newton for the wonders of technology. I can’t imagine how difficult this may have been for the first groups of volunteers back in the 60s.
The other thing that made our lives and our relationship easier is that we were able to see each other. We’ve now seen each other three times. First, as soon as was possible (Peace Corps Azerbaijan stipulates that we must remain in country and at site for the first four months of service), we met in Glasgow, Scotland. At that point, I only had a few saved up vacation days, so it was a short trip, but much needed, because it confirmed to us that we still worked when we were together. There was no awkwardness in our conversation or in our actions. All the little things—talking, joking, laughing, holding hands—were still there. We were still us.
The next time was even better, though it was not always fun. She came to Azerbaijani. At the beginning, she was steadfastly against coming. But little by little, she opened up to the idea and eventually decided she would come for ten days at the end of July. The visit was not a vacation, and in addition to the fact that it was brutally hot at the time, it was not always fun. But the fact that she came, that she had opened herself up to the idea and the experience, that she had trusted me to come around the world, meant a lot for the relationship, and meant a lot to me.
The third and most recent visit was over Christmas, and finally I made the trip home. This was my turn to be initially opposed. At the beginning of my service, I worried about not being able to come back to Azerbaijan because I liked being home too much. And while I did like being home, I knew I was far enough along in my service that I would be too stubborn to give up and stay in America.
And she supported that determination. When I got my assignment to Azerbaijan, after we figured out where it was exactly, we were on two different sides about whether I should go. But I went. And now, as we have traversed the ups and downs, suffered through the power outages and dropped phone calls, she said something to me the other day that meant a lot to me. She told me that if something were to happen that would cause me to be sent home early, she would be upset for me. At the beginning, she not entirely jokingly wanted me to suffer some minor but significant enough injury that I would be sent home. Now, though, she understands. She understands me, and that if I were sent home now, or anytime in the next nine months, I would not feel like I had completed what I set out to do, and would forever feel unfulfilled. For that understanding, I know more than ever that this is a relationship worth fighting for, and I thank her for that.
Who knows exactly what will happen in the next nine months (and one week). But at the same time that being in a relationship is made difficult by being in Peace Corps and in turn makes being in Peace Corps more difficult, it also makes it easier in many ways. Even better, someone who visited and now understands what I’m doing here all the more, makes me feel even more motivated and positive about the work I’m attempting to do. And as long as I know that she is there to listen when I need to talk, to talk when I need to listen and even when I’m not ready to listen but always willing to, I know that we will survive and in fact, thrive.
What worked for us will not work for everyone, but, in a small bout of wishing that this is not solely self-centered, I hope that some prospective PCV reads this and gleams some encouragement that they can make their long distance relationship work. We hear time and time again that long distance relationships never work, and I’ve seen and been a part of relationships that have not worked. But sometimes, once in a blue moon, they do. And thank goodness for that.
February
The past month has been a bit rough. I remember last winter was tough and cold, but this seems like a whole new level of cold. Of course, Azerbaijan isn't the only country getting hit by ridiculous cold. Europe has been swept by intense cold weather, that has even caused deaths.
The weather has had a strong impact on my clubs. Since returning from Mid-Service Conference, attendance has been way down, and the cold weather is a big part of that. I started English conversation clubs, as well as an arts and crafts/creativity club. I am continuing, with one of the teachers here, to work on an exchange program with a Japanese school (in which we collaborate to complete a cultural mural on a large canvas), as well as a teacher conversation club for non-English teachers, and a small conversation club/English test preparation course that started out as a one-on-one tutoring session to prepare a student for FLEX.
My grandparents sent a pile of National Geographic maps and posters, with which I decorated my classroom, but no students have even set foot in the room since I spent an afternoon deciding which ones to use (surprise, I used them all!). I get excited just walking into the room. Now I just need students to be allowed back outside.
The most disappointing part of the attendance dip has been that I came back from Mid-Service Conference energized and re-motivated. These conferences with Peace Corps are not always the most exciting or informative times, but I love hearing about everyone else's work and projects, and enjoy stealing the best and most useful for my own school. This is just one of those times when I know things will get better, it's just a matter of waiting for the better to come.
We got a step forward (though I'm sure there will be a step back at least once or twice) today, when the sun came out, and stayed out all day. After what seems like a month (really a solid two or three weeks), having the sun on my face today has been rejuvenating. It certainly has not hurt that there was finally enough gas that I didn't need to spend the day hibernating in my brown monster sleeping bag. Next step: I need my pipes to unfreeze during the morning so I can get water. The last few days of filling up my water filter with snow and waiting for it to melt and filter takes a little too long for not much water.
The next milestone to look forward to is next month's Novruz holiday. You may remember, this is Azerbaijan's biggest holiday, and usually means spring is starting to come around the corner. Last year, there was snow on the ground, but we didn't need to bundle up anywhere near as much as we are now. So, fingers crossed that I make it through until then. Think warm thoughts. Think warm thoughts.
The weather has had a strong impact on my clubs. Since returning from Mid-Service Conference, attendance has been way down, and the cold weather is a big part of that. I started English conversation clubs, as well as an arts and crafts/creativity club. I am continuing, with one of the teachers here, to work on an exchange program with a Japanese school (in which we collaborate to complete a cultural mural on a large canvas), as well as a teacher conversation club for non-English teachers, and a small conversation club/English test preparation course that started out as a one-on-one tutoring session to prepare a student for FLEX.
My grandparents sent a pile of National Geographic maps and posters, with which I decorated my classroom, but no students have even set foot in the room since I spent an afternoon deciding which ones to use (surprise, I used them all!). I get excited just walking into the room. Now I just need students to be allowed back outside.
The most disappointing part of the attendance dip has been that I came back from Mid-Service Conference energized and re-motivated. These conferences with Peace Corps are not always the most exciting or informative times, but I love hearing about everyone else's work and projects, and enjoy stealing the best and most useful for my own school. This is just one of those times when I know things will get better, it's just a matter of waiting for the better to come.
We got a step forward (though I'm sure there will be a step back at least once or twice) today, when the sun came out, and stayed out all day. After what seems like a month (really a solid two or three weeks), having the sun on my face today has been rejuvenating. It certainly has not hurt that there was finally enough gas that I didn't need to spend the day hibernating in my brown monster sleeping bag. Next step: I need my pipes to unfreeze during the morning so I can get water. The last few days of filling up my water filter with snow and waiting for it to melt and filter takes a little too long for not much water.
The next milestone to look forward to is next month's Novruz holiday. You may remember, this is Azerbaijan's biggest holiday, and usually means spring is starting to come around the corner. Last year, there was snow on the ground, but we didn't need to bundle up anywhere near as much as we are now. So, fingers crossed that I make it through until then. Think warm thoughts. Think warm thoughts.
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