Monday, December 19, 2011

A Slightly Preemptive Year in Review

Best Albums I Listened To
-Bon Iver—Bon Iver
-Iron & Wine—Kiss Each Other Clean
-Fleet Foxes—Helplessness Blues
-The Decemberists—The King is Dead
-The Civil Wars—Barton Hollow
-Radical Face—The Family Tree
-Black Keys—El Camino
-Blind Pilot—We are the Tide
-Paste Magazine’s Compilation of Free Christmas Music (not an album, but free, and Christmasy)

Best Books I Read (Limited to First-Time Reads)
-Best American Non-required Reading 2010
-The Raw Shark Texts
-Cold Mountain
-The Places In Between
-The Tiger’s Wife
-Johnny Cash’s autobiography
-The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao
-The Greater Journey: Americans in Paris
-Black Garden

Best TV and Movies (Incomplete due to Poor Memory):
-Midnight in Paris
-The Wire
-X-Men: First Class
-Homeland
-The Social Network
-Tron: Legacy (Almost Exclusively for the Soundtrack Award)
-Sherlock (BBC)
-Doctor Who Season Six
-Vacations in the Danger Zone—Nagorno-Karabagh region

Best and Only Trips (International):
-Scotland
-Istanbul
-Assume that trip back to the US fits here as well

Best Trips (National):
-Camping in Oguz (despite the rain and leaky tents)
-Evaluation Meeting in Sheki at the Sheki Saray Hotel
-Multiple Lahic trips (with PCVs, family, girlfriend, more PCVs)
-ABLE camp in Qabala, Training of Trainers at the campsite in advance
-Halloween in Barda
-Thanksgiving in Baku

Favorite Projects:
-ABLE
-Sheki Sumemr Camp
-Softball
-FLEX Preparation (Despite temporary failure)
-(Pending) Theater Club
-(Pending) Mural Exchange Program with Japanese School

Favorite New Hobby:
-Watercolor Painting
-Cooking (at least during the summer)

Saddest Moment:
-Burying a puppy

Happiest Moments:
-Weekends in Tezekend with sitemates escaping from daily life, but not the cold
-Playing with a new puppy (slightly less happy—serving as her chew toy)
-Welcoming my family, my girlfriend to Azerbaijan and to Ismayilli, and exploring Istanbul
-A student coming back from summer camp determined to try to apply for FLEX
-Justifying playing Christmas music early because of snow in early November
-Eating homemade birthday cake made by my host mother

Funniest Moments:
-Coaxing a stray dog into the cabin of the other PCVs during ABLE
-Being pelted with water balloons in the middle of the night in retaliation
-Having a dog that likes to perch on my shoulders like a mountain goat
-Speaking to my host brother about college life in America from Azerbaijan

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Twenty Years Ago Today

Two decades ago, the Soviet Union was dissolved by a group of people in Belarus. Azerbaijan had declared independence several months earlier, but even today, the ties with Russia are important to many Azeris. In fact, they hold very powerful memories of the time period Azerbaijan spent as a member of the USSR. Many yearn for the days when employment was higher, and life was better.

An expert on the region, Thomas de Waal, who wrote a strong book on the topic of the conflict that has frozen Azerbaijan's politics for a number of years (in fact since before the fall of the Soviet Union), has recently weighed in on the progress the Caucasus countries have made in these past twenty years. It has not been an easy twenty years, but progress has been made in some ways, and setbacks have come in other areas.

Here's Thomas de Waal's article:
http://carnegieendowment.org/2011/11/27/south-caucasus-almost-grown-up-at-20/7tqy

In another interview, he also makes a wonderful analysis of The Butter Battle Book, by Dr Seuss, comparing it to the Caucasian conflict. It's on page 2 of the link.

http://thebrowser.com/interviews/thomas-de-waal-on-conflict-caucasus?page=1

One Year In

September marked the anniversary of our arrival in Azerbaijan, but this week I’ll have been in Ismayilli for one year. I’m going to try and keep this from becoming one of those “so much has changed, so little has changed” posts, but it’s worth noting that a lot has changed in the past year, while at the same time, it feels like no time has passed at all. One of my site mates has moved on, and is currently traveling the world before he eventually returns home. The new group of volunteers, the AZ9s, has finished their training and is preparing to move to their permanent sites (a huge congratulations to all of the AZ9s for surviving PST!). Things are changing. For many of us who have been in the country for a year, this is a time when we are evaluating what we have done, what we have learned, what we have accomplished. It’s very easy to get discouraged, and I’m no exception to that rule. There are days when things feel like they are dragging, that the students or teachers we work with haven’t learned anything; that everything is failing. But there are days here and there when someone surprises us, and our time here is justified; we are vindicated.

So here I am, closer to coming home than to arriving, and moving closer with every day. I'm closer to people than I was, and have been fortunate to form some very strong bonds with my host family, and a number of teachers, students, and other members of the community.

A part of me has to fight off the feeling that I have to do something to make my time here worthwhile. Write a grant, conduct some huge project, build something. That’s not for everyone, though my school periodically asks me what project I will conduct, what I will do for my permanent project. To be a success, I don’t need to leave a new school room or resource center, or have brought water to my village, as some volunteers in other countries do. I'm still not sure exactly what success is, though I know it must different for everyone, even for two volunteers in the same community.

I’m not sure what my plans are for the next year. I will wrap up the theater clubs I’m doing at school with a performance at the end of December, before I travel home for the first time, for Christmas and New Years. An aside—I feel like it was a long time in between arriving at site and Christmas, but of course it wasn’t, it won’t feel that way this year. There was just so much to take in and get used to in the three weeks between site arrival and Christmas that it felt like eons.

When I return from America, I will start several new clubs, though what their themes will be I haven’t decided yet. Health? Arts and crafts? Poetry writing? Sky’s the limit! I know that I will continue the work I have done outside of school, including an English club for teachers, and a TOEFL test preparation session. On top of that, I will continue to plan and work on the ABLE summer camp for next summer. I have a pile of books that I intend to read, DVDs to watch, and music to listen to, all of which I have postponed as I become distracted with new discoveries. I have a puppy to take care of, who needs attention and play, and something besides my fingers to chew on.

I hope to travel more in the country, to the north, to the south, to the east, to the west. There’s still a lot of Azerbaijan I haven’t seen yet, and even though Ismayilli’s a bit of a black hole, I should be able to find my way eventually. There’ll be a few more trips to Baku for Peace Corps conferences. I hope also to travel more outside of the country. I don’t know if I’ll ever make it back to this part of the world, so I’d love to check out our neighboring countries—really this means Georgia, as our other neighbors are Iran, Russia, the Caspian Sea, and the country that must not be named.

Beyond that, the next year is an open book. Here we go. Forgive all the I's in this post. It is after all, about me, or I.